French house Celine appointed Ralph Lauren alum Michael Rider at the helm as its new Creative / Artistic Director following the exit of Heidi Slimane. The American designer was creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren from 2018 and up until May. Prior to that he was a senior designer at Balenciaga in the Nicolas Ghesquière era (2004-2008) and then for a decade he worked as design director of ready-to-wear at Celine under Phoebe Philo - from 2008 to 2018. Thus he is no stranger at the LVMH-owned brand - his appointment is a homecoming of sorts.

But the house has considerably changed under Slimane’s tenure - who held the post for seven years. Since Rider last set foot into Celine’s Rue Vivienne offices, the house became a megabrand, with Slimane adopting an aesthetic that marked a period of remarkable growth which involved rebranding. He started in Slimane-fashion by removing the l'accent aigu from the logo that was previously Céline - as he equally removed Yves from Saint Laurent when he took over at the house from Stefano Pilati in 2012.

Today, and because of Slimane’s radical vision, according to sources, Celine ranks as one of the fastest-growing brands at LVMH Fashion Group, third in place after Louis Vuitton and Dior by 2023, with revenues reportedly of 2.6 billion euros. For LVMH, talents like Slimane are considered among the most bankable designers of their generation. In a statement the group admitted that under Slimane’s creative and artistic direction, “Celine has experienced exceptional growth and established itself as an iconic French couture house,” adding that he “has made Celine a house with a formidable foundation for the future.”

Which inevitably begs the question of whether Rider, whose appointment will take effect early 2025 and will involve the entire creative responsibility of all Celine collections, from womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories to couture, will continue “the holistic vision of Hedi Slimane” who redefined “the codes of Celine whilst reaffirming its feminine and Parisian roots” by enriching new territories for the maison or whether he will adhere to heritage and built on the Phoebe Philo legacy - the creative director who preceded Slimane. The sentiment from the French luxury group and of the house thus far is heritage-driven.

As Celine CEO Séverine Merle stated, “I am delighted to welcome Michael back to Celine, a maison that he knows intimately.

Michael’s vision, creative talent, together with his genuine nature and strong connection to Celine’s heritage, make him a natural choice to continue to build a long-lasting success for the maison.” To which Michael Rider added, “Celine is a Maison with values very close to my heart and a beautiful heritage to build on. I am honored to come back and shape the future of the Maison together with the Celine team.”

Rider’s appointment comes in a climate of creative uncertainty and upheaval hanging over the industry, currently dealing with a slowdown in luxury consumption and consumer caution. Thus, in short order, the choice of where Celine will be headed aesthetically is crucial - whether the new artistic director will be returning to the minimalist aesthetic meets modern femininity vibe of Phoebe Philo (Old Celine) or have as a mandate to build on the house’s current momentum (New Celine) and on Slimane’s trajectory capitalising on “his exigence and rigor” to keep Celine relevant to a younger, affluent audience and contribute to even more impressive growth.

From a sales-driven perspective, the task is clear - he will need to adopt a balancing act between Slimane's next-gen interpretation of the house with the consumer nostalgia of Philo for greater global appeal.

And Michael Rider has the track record for making heritage cool again - under his stewardship at Ralph Lauren, Rider was credited with revitalizing the brand with a modern twist, revamping the line and bringing it upmarket whilst making the brand look more distinctive than it has for years.

Thus this task, even though it is no small feat, may just be positioning him perfectly to build on Celine’s legacy while pushing it, LVMH-hopefully, exponentially forward.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

NICOLE ZENIOU

Nicole Zeniou is a Contributing Fashion Features Editor at Bungalow 28, joining in 2024. Previously the Fashion Features Editor at Madame Figaro Cyprus, she has contributed to titles like Marie Claire Greece, Cosmopolitan Cyprus, and The Cyprus Weekly. Founder of the online interview magazine The Éditor, Nicole is passionate about blending creative disciplines and supporting international talent. She has interviewed leading fashion figures such as LaQuan Smith, David Koma, Casey Cadwallader, Lorenzo Serafini, and Mary Katrantzou.

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